A Lake Where Once was None

Last week the Von and Maureen Callister family embarked on an epic autumn adventure. Long has the family discussed returning to Lake Powell to do it RIGHT. By returning I mean that we have made many trips over the years that have, in one form or another, interfaced with this expansive Lake which criss-crosses a massive swath of Southern Utah (the Colorado Plateau). We have camped near it, swam in it, driven over it, etc. We have always known that the way to do this place RIGHT is by water. The silver-lining to the somewhat devastating damming of the Colorado River at Glen Canyon, was the tremendous increased access it provided to a wonderland of red rock cathedrals, sandy beaches, canyons slots, and vistas. Some of us had independently experienced Lake Powell this way, but the goal was to make the trip as a family. Last week we did it! Before the trip even started, prayers were sent heavenward petitioning providence to keep the majority of us well. This because one family came to Utah with a few strains of sinusitis and another was recovering from very recent bout of stomach flu (an affliction which tainted the previous year's reunion in Ogden Valley). Those were genuine prayers, as we had all very much looked forward to this rare experience of being together and had hoped to enjoy it in relative health. Ma and Pa Callister had outdone themselves for this trip. We had a 52-foot houseboat (which felt more like a ferry) to serve as headquarters, while Josh, my brother had his ski boat for more agile travel and additional human conveyance. We hit the Lake Wednesday morning and before too long were parked in a lovely spot that Google Earth had revealed to have promise (and which indeed lived up to its promise). The location suited a number of important "Callister" functions: 1. A wide selection of places to fling oneself from a rocky ledge into water (5 - 30 feet), 2. Areas to pitch a number of tents, 3. Coves for exploring with Kayaks, 4. Relative isolation, 5. Places to wander, and wander some more. The added bonus was the Slot Canyon located at the end of our narrow canyon camp. We had such a great time pursuing all of the above listed activities and a few more, including horse shoes and Calliball-- (one of many tennis ball based games that have developed over years of camping trips). Novelty can go under-appreciated when expectations are not met. In our case, sun, swimming and starry nights were the expectation. On Friday we were met with rain, wind and overcast. Optimism however quickly turned this failed expectation into a true desert novelty-- That of FLOWING water and ROCK. Those familiar with the desert know that rainy nights quickly turn into clear mornings full of raging ephemeral streams. These waterways spend the majority of their life bone dry, evoking the question of passers by: "I wonder what this place looks like when there is water flowing here?" We had the rare pleasure of seeing for ourselves. It was any geology instructors dream come true and we did our best to teach one another about the creative power of erosion as we watched water pore over this landscape and gather into little burrowing channels. It was the little unexpected gift of the trip. On our last day we decided to push our time-frame back and get in a good hike through our slot canyon. We have a fascination with slot canyons; narrow crevices in rock, where water and wind have slowly etched deeper and deeper. Its a tremendous rush to walk through the "belly of the beast," with only occasional glimpses of blue sky above. Our Lake Powell slot did not disappoint. The last hundred yards or so were met with knee deep, newly fallen rain water, adding to the excitement and mystery of the place. This was the kids first slot and thus had a certain ceremonial feel to it. They loved it (though Henry slept the majority of the way back down). On the whole it was a fabulous escape from the many and varied distractions of the posterity of Von and Maureen Callister. We visited, laughed, played, slept, watched rain and lightning, sang a little bit, told lots of stories and had a magnificent time doing it all.